As visitors heave open the thick, vault-like metal door to the Neve
Shalom Synagogue on a discreet side street in the Galata neighborhood of
European Istanbul, a skittish guard confronts them.
Guests are shuttled through secure, windowless rooms to an X-ray
machine and metal detector. Pockets are emptied and passports
surrendered. The guard questions the reason for the visit and the
guests' ethnicity. He then determines whether they can be allowed